My Barber Shop Experience

After having intended to for about the last week, today I went for a haircut. I have visited two barbershops since arriving in Merida, but until today hadn’t settled on a barber to whom I wished to return.

About noon I walked to the barber shop on Calle 39 just off Calle 62, about a block and a half from my apartment. My trip for a haircut resulted in a wonderful 2 hour experience, the type of which I have come to expect here.

When I arrived there was one fellow in the chair and two others waiting, so I had plenty of time to examine the place, which consisted of one room of about 12’ x 12’; and to listen to the obviously jocular conversation. Though I understood little of what was said everyone was cordial and I sat patiently waiting my turn.

Later, when I was in the chair my next door neighbor brought her son in. She asked many questions about my garden which she can see from her second story. I introduced myself and learned her name is Edna. She was very nice and anxious to talk.

As I sat waiting I was astounded by the amazingly beautiful barber chair around which the barber, Luis Baeza, moved as he efficiently and meticulously groomed his clients. Two of the fellows ahead of me were in for a shave, which was completed with a straight razor. After finishing with each, Sr. Baeza repeatedly sprayed his hands with water and returned to his client to rub his wet hands over the client’s face searching for spots that required further attention. The entire time Sr. Baeza carried on with the conversation that included all present, often stopping his work to support his remarks with hand gestures.

The shop’s chair is constructed of wood, cast iron, and brass with a cane seat and back. The wood of the arms and legs is carved with various designs; the ornately cast iron footrest includes the Konen Company name and logo; and the brass fittings, that enable the reclining feature, are ornate. The four wooden legs, which radiate from the central support, are capped with brass. The chair carries a plaque on the rear of the seat indicating it was manufactured by Konen’s Barber Supply Company, of St. Louis, and indicates a date of 1888.

An internet search upon my return home indicates that Konen’s patented the reclining barber chair in 1888 and that the particular chair in Sr. Baeza’s shop is likely the Congress One-Lever Chair No.132, which the company advertised in its 1926 catalogue as "The Chair for Cuba and the Philippines". There is a removable, padded headrest which Sr. Baeza inserts before reclining his clients for their shave.

I was so taken away by the chair that I asked Sr. Baeza if it would be alright if I returned to photograph the chair. He was thrilled.

I returned a bit later and found an elderly client in the chair. Sr. Baeza asked if I wanted his client to get out of the chair. I, of course, assured him that I was happy to wait. While I was waiting, Sr. Baeza explained to his client that I was there to photograph the chair and the conversation was off and running. The older fellow in the chair joked that the chair was from Chicago and was used by Al Capone.

About then another client entered the shop and joined the conversation. When the conversation turned to the age of the chair Sr. Baeza informed his client that the chair’s plaque carried the date of 1888. I remarked that the chair was 118 years old. The old fellow in the chair looked at me and I immediately assured him that I was speaking of the chair and not him. They all laughed. The old guy in the chair then told me that on February 21 he would be 100 years old. He allowed me to express my amazement and remark upon how he looks really good for being 100 before he let me know he was kidding. He will be only 80.

I asked Sr. Cliente, as I called him, if he minded if I took his picture and he of course said “no problema.” The picture at the left is the result. His name, he informed me when I asked, is Sr. Novelo; and true to his name he makes it up as he goes along. We all enjoyed a number of good laughs at his jestful commentary.

After Sr. Novelo was finished with his laughs at my expense, and Sr. Baeza was finished with his meticulous work on his hair, he got out of the chair, refusing any assistance from both Sr. Baeza and me, and I took the pictures above.

When it was my turn in the chair I instructed Sr. Baeza to cut it short and did he ever cut it short. I am now sporting what I think may fairly be called a buzz cut. The haircut will require no care but I must be more attentive to wearing a hat when in the mid-day sun.

I’m sitting here thinking of how extremely fortunate I am to have two hours to spend at a barber shop and pleased that I have found a barber shop just around the corner where I don't mind spending two hours. Another great day in Merida.