Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Nixon Redux III

Just as did Nixon, the republicans are using IRS audits to punish their opponents.

The Washington Post Report

Armando

This past Sunday Armando, my 88 year old (soon to be 89) Cuban American neighbor asked if he could take me lunch at a local cocina economica/bar I had told him about. I of course accepted.

A week or so ago Armando asked if I would email his granddaughter and let her know that his mailing address had changed. I did. In her response his granddaughter expressed her concerns for his health.

So with Armando's authorization I emailed this picture to her to show her that her grandfather is in such a shape that those of us who might live to 89 could only wish for.

Armando has been wonderful to me, particularly in helping me to understand local ways. He is also a great source of information of Cuban history, of which I've been recently grilling him while reading "Cuba - A New History". He left Cuba for the USA in 1957 and retired here 27 years ago.

Carnaval

Tomorrow, being Ash Wednesday, Catholics will begin their observance of Lent, the forty days preceding Easter characterized by withdrawal and reflection. Certainly during Lent no behavior such as has occurred here the last few days will be permitted

Today, Fat Tuesday, Merida businesses have been closed, I suppose so folks can get serious about their final day of Carnaval debauchery. (The word Carnaval reportedly derives from Latin meaning “goodbye meat”.)

Tonight will be the Battle of Flowers, the final parade of Carnaval 2006, which involves a flower fight with the spectators. The parade will be followed by the usual music and dance.

El Macho Grande asked, in a comment to my Friday post, if I have been too hung over to post since then. I can report that I have not over indulged to the point of hangover during the entire celebration, despite the $10 peso beers available at the ubiquitous Sol, Corona, and Modelo booths. In fact, I haven’t even been to any of the parades or parties since Saturday night, when this geezer reached his fill of the shoulder to shoulder crowds.

Thursday afternoon, as I earlier reported, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the young children, in their thematic costumes, and their adult chaperones dancing down the street during the afternoon “Preschool” parade.

Friday evening I walked the three blocks to the Paeso Montejo an hour before the parade to ensure a good seat from which to take pictures. I parked myself at the very end of the top bench of one of the sets of bleachers that had been set up for block after block on the boulevard median.

Soon Nelson, Cynthia, and their young son sat on the end of the top bench of the bleachers across a two foot aisle from my perch and a couple of very innocent looking, obviously shy high school sweethearts took the seats to my left. Introduction were made all around and soon the party began.

It wasn’t long before Nelson climbed down, disappeared into the crowd and returned shortly with three Sols, one of which he handed to me. We sat, drank and chatted as we waited for the parade. Nelson and Cynthia were both very patient with my sometimes inadequate Spanish. Next it was my turn for a trip to the Sol booth, during which I also picked up Cokes for the high school sweeties, who declined the offer of beer.

Pretty soon a rather rotund fellow and his family parked themselves in the aisle between Neslon and me, introductions were made, and he immediately joined in the beer run rotation. Nelson returned from his next beer run with a Sol Carnaval T-shirt which he handed to me and explained that with each 5 empties one gets a T-shirt or hat. So we of course had to accumulate five more for a T-shirt for Neslon.

The Corso Parade, which was almost parenthetical to my Friday evening experience, featured costumed dancing groups and elaborate commercial floats from which generally scantily clad, dancing women and men threw various items into the crowd. My conversations with Nelson, his wife, and the rotund fellow and his sons was far more entertaining.

When I arrived on the Paseo Montejo Saturday evening, for the Fantasy Parade, there wasn’t a bleacher seat to be had so I found a spot in the row between two set of bleachers from which I would have a good view. In short order, a fellow seated on the top seat of the bleachers with his family tapped me on the shoulder and directed me to climb up and sit next to his wife. I thanked him heartily and climbed on up. He and his wife and their three freshly scrubbed and combed children, two boys of about 4 and 5 and an adorable daughter of 11 months, were delightful company.

It wasn’t long before the little girl, bedecked in her crisp pink dress and beaded corn rows, reached over from her mother’s lap and playfully poked me in the cheek. I gave a return poke to her cheek and she burst into giggles. The poking game went on for a bit, until one of her brothers decided to move on down to see what the fun was all about. Once the parade began the little guy, steadying himself with a hand on my shoulder, pointed out and explained the coming parade entries to me. Not that I understood what he was saying. Again the parade, which was pretty much the same as the night before, wasn’t nearly as interesting as was my interchanges with the wonderfully friendly family.

Tomorrow things will return to normal and mostly likely be another great day in the Yucatan.

Friday, February 24, 2006

Carnaval

Carnaval 2006 kicked off Wednesday evening with the ceremonial Burning of the Bad Moods on a stage set up in the street in front of the Municipal Building adjacent to the Plaza de la Independencia. The elaborately decorated stage was as wide as the street.

The ceremony was preceded by a dance contest amongst a number of girls selected from the audience, the participants in which were judged by audience applause.

Yesterday afternoon was the Children's Parade, the first of six parades in six days.

Various Jardines de Ninos (Children's Gardens), which is what kindergartens are called here, dressed up, elaborately, in accordance with themes, such as Aladdin, Snow White,
Wizard of Oz, Tarzan, and etc., and danced down the street to the music from a huge sound system in the back of a pick up truck which preceded each group.

The adult chaperones of each group boogied right along with the kids.


The streets were lined four or five deep for block after block and chairs and bleachers were set up in the parks abutting the street.

I nestled into a spot behind the three deep chairs from where I had a fairly good view of the procession but as parade time neared it soon became shoulder to shoulder. I ended up pressed against a tree with barely enough room to wrest my day pack from my back to get more film and reload my camera.

As you can see in the lowest picture, even the children spectators got into the act of dressing in costumes. It was a wonderful experience to see the hundreds of children in their elaborate costumes dancing along the street and the thousands of spectators smiling, applauding and holding their children aloft so they could see the parade.

I realized during the parade that the children I had seen practicing dance routines in Celestun, while I was waiting for the bus, were practicing for Carnaval.

I have noticed here, as I noticed in Cuba, that everyone loves the children; and that the children in Merida, and their clothing, are always immaculately clean.

Tonight is the "Corso Parade: This is the first parade where the dance groups start their competition for best group. The ex-Kings and Queens and grade school kids are in the parade. Along the parade route there are 20 bands of national and international fame. The fun of Carnival begins!", as described on the official Carnaval 2006 web site.

I will walk the three blocks to the Paseo Montejo and try to get a seat on the bleachers set up, for block after block, in the median. The Montejo is lined with Coca Cola, Pepsi, Corona, and Sol cabanas/vendor booths.

One of the next few days I will research the relationship between Carnaval and Lent and inform those of you who, like me, don't know. During my research I'll probably also discover what Lent is all about. Being a heathen, I've never Lentenized.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Send O'Reilly to Darfur Pledge Drive Report

"Kristof's Pledge Drive Yields $727,568 to Send Bill O'Reilly to Darfur"

And I thought it was a joke. This should suggest an income opportunity to the unscrupulous.

Birth Announcement

The avocado seed I planted some weeks ago has given birth to a sprout which is now developing its initial set of leaves.

As you can see in the picture below, my little tree nursery on the patio now includes the papaya that my neighbor Ignacio wrenched from his yard and dropped to me over the back yard wall, which can be seen at the right center; a mango that had sprouted from a seed below the large mango tree in the back yard, which I transplanted into a container, and which can be seen at the top center of the picture; about 20 smaller papayas from seeds I planted; and ten mandarins from seeds.

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Francis Fukuyama

Can someone please tell me why anyone should give any credence what-so-ever to what Francis Fukuyama has to say, let alone buy his books?

The guy is a professor at Johns Hopkins University and cranks out books like pasta, probably on the university’s dollar; but he changes is ideological clothes like an adolescent in the midst of his political pubescence.

A mere seven, or so, years ago he was riding posse with the like of William Kristol, Robert Kagen, Paul Wolfowitz, Richard Perle, Donald Rumsfeld, and the other neofascists, to whom, in accordance with their self promotions, everyone refers to as neoconservatives.

Fukuyama, along with the aforementioned fanatics, signed onto the 1998 letter to then President Clinton encouraging U. S. military action to remove Hussein; and now, after his fellow travelers have completely botched the job, in his latest trope, from within his academic insulation, he is lecturing us on the failures of his previous ideology de jour.

I suppose that since his latest pedantic offering is getting lots of play in the media Johns Hopkins will give him a raise. Or maybe name a chair after the hack.

Carnaval

I imagine if these grandstands, erected in Hunucma for the upcoming Carnaval celebrations, were erected in the USA, the fire and police chiefs, the OSHA inspector, the insurance company risk manager and a host of others would be shitting bricks.

Though there have already been something like 18 Caranval parties that have rotated around Merida's major parks, Carnaval 2006 will be kicked off tomorrow night with the ceremonial "Burning of the Bad Moods" in front of the Municipal Building. Then comes six major parades in six days.

Last evening I walked down the Paseo Montejo, on my way two colonias (neighborhoods) North to take a look at a restaurant in a beautiful colonial house. Paseo Montejo, one of the most beautiful boulevards in the City, is a major part of the Carnaval parade route.

Bleachers have been placed in the median for parade spectators; Coca Cola, Pepsi, and Corona cabanas and vendor booths line block after block; the trash containers have been removed from their posts; and the banks and other business have put up defensive fences.

I'll give you all the details of the week long party.

Monday, February 20, 2006

There's No Damned Towels

Actually, there were towels in the $200 per night Cancun hotel room; but they just weren't large enough for Dan, my good friend and neighbor of 30 years. So he used the bedspread.

I ran across this picture in my computer files this morning, while searching for another photo, and rolled over laughing just as I did when taking the picture.

Leones de Yucatan

My big adventure today was bussing to El Parque Kukulkan home of Los Leones de Yucatan. Los Leones play in the Southern division of the Mexican League.

I had hoped to buy a ticket to opening night on March 22 but was informed single tickets don't go on sale until March 1. Now one may only purchase season tickets.

Today there was a tryout for a number of catchers, who took turns receiving the ball from a pitching machine and throwing to the bases. The team members, in orange, jogged around the field and did their calesthetics in the outfield.

Visit Los Leones web site.

I get a tremendous kick out of riding the local buses here and intend to post on the subject soon.

He Forgot To Include Spelling

I have for some time been meaning to post this picture that my friend Angela sent me.

I wonder if the picture was taken at one of the "astro turf" anti-gambling demonstrations Ralph Reed organized using funding that Jack Abramoff got from Indian tribes operating casinos.

"Senate Coverup Committee"

Sen. Pat Roberts of Kansas, chair of the Senate Intelligence Committee, has done everything he has been able to cover up the Bush administration’s misdeed and lies. Apparently Roberts has carried the White House water a bit too far.

The L. A. Times has opined that:
“THAT THE UNITED STATES Senate has a body called the Intelligence Committee is an irony George Orwell would have truly appreciated. In a world without Doublespeak, the panel, chaired by GOP Sen. Pat Roberts of Kansas, would be known by a more appropriate name — the Senate Coverup Committee.”


Laura Rozen, at War and Piece, excerpts a Washington Post report of how Roberts derailed a committee vote on a motion by ranking democrat Jay Rockefeller, of W. VA, that the committee begin an inquiry into the Bush administration’s illegal spying. And that Republican senators Olympia Snow, of Maine, and Chuck Hagel, of Nebraska,
informed White House Water Boy Roberts of their intentions to vote for the Rockefeller motion.

Rozen also reports that even Roberts’ home state newspapers are getting into the act.
The Witchita Eagle has opined that:
“.. From Abu Ghraib abuses to secret CIA detainee prisons to the Valerie Plame affair, critics say, Roberts has become a dependable shill for the White House, ever ready to shield Bush policy from criticism and ever willing to compromise Congress' legitimate oversight role.”
and
From a Kansas City Star columnist:
"But there was some good news for this president. Republican Sen. Pat Roberts of Kansas, Intelligence Committee chairman, promised harsher punishment for leakers. Why investigate scandal when you can sweep it under the rug — right, Senator?"

KaTravels Blog

Kat is living and teaching in Merida and has a great blog chronicling her experiences here in well composed narratives and wonderful photos. Check it out.


Kat also makes fine chili which I sampled at the Merida English Library's cook off.

Saturday, February 18, 2006

One Hell Of A Big Tree

I believe this a Kapok tree. I happeneded upon it yesterday while out for an extended walk around the Itzimna area. I have noticed a number of other large specimens around town.

I have since read that the Kapok tree can grow to 150 feet tall and 9 feet in diameter. The trees were considered sacred by indigenous people.

Note: 2/20/06 I have removed the verbiage where I had mixed up the concepts of diameter and circumference. Duh!

Friday, February 17, 2006

Correspondence From A Reader

I'm thinking that everyone should have to opportunity to read this highly literate comment that anonymous left under my Train Station post. If you're interested you can read my response by going to the post.
I'm really offended by the suggestion that I'm a child of the 70s. I'm a child of the 60s, and the 60s were a hell of a lot more interesting, and fun, than were the 70s.

Anonymous said...

Hey Chris,The 70's called and they want you back!Your whiny liberal claptrap make me want to puke!If Mexico isn't to your tastes then I'm sure you'll do just fine in Cuba as you mentioned.Uncle Fidel just loves you traitorous ex-pats and Uncle Sam will be better off without you.

Leaked USA Army Report Catalogs Abuse

Abu Ghraib leaked report reveals full extent of abuse

· 1,325 images of suspected detainee abuse
· 93 video files of suspected detainee abuse
· 660 images of adult pornography
· 546 images of suspected dead Iraqi detainees
· 29 images of soldiers in simulated sexual acts


Suzanne Goldenberg in Washington
Friday February 17, 2006
The Guardian


Nearly two years after the first pictures of naked and humiliated Iraqi detainees emerged from Abu Ghraib prison, the full extent of the abuse became known for the first time yesterday with a leaked report from the US army's internal investigation into the scandal.

NOTE: Click on the header to be directed to the complete Guardian story

Celestun Is Well Worth A Visit

Every tourist guide I have consulted since beginning my Yucatan research, in preparation for my move here, recommends a trip to Celestun. The guides cite the boat excursions through the tidal estuary of the Ria Celestun Biosphere Reserve that afford views and photo opportunities of the vast flocks of flamingos; hundreds of other bird species; a swim in the clear, cool fresh water springs that bubble to the surface and drain into the estuary; a stop to view the “petrified forest” which, as I suspected, is not really petrified; and a ride through one of the sloughs that penetrate the dense mangrove forests that flank the estuary. The guides also encourage lunch in one of the town’s many seafood restaurants.

The tourist guides are right. Celestun is well worth a visit. The exhilarating boat ride, bouncing through the Gulf waters to the Southern end of the peninsula upon which the town of Celestun resides and which separates the Gulf from the estuary, is itself worth the trip.

Being a freelance tourist who avoids guided tours, I opted for a “servicio intermedio” (second class) bus to Celestun. The bus traveled through the towns of Hunucma, Kinchil, and a number of smaller communities which afforded views of traditional Mayan homes and other interesting local sites. The bus stopped frequently along the way, during the two hour trip, to take on and discharge passengers.

As I descended the bus steps upon our arrival in Celestun, I was immediately approached by a fellow who identified himself as Hector Marine, who, I discovered as he addressed the five tourists from the bus, speaks, at least, Spanish, English and Italian. Hector asked us each, an Italian couple, an Asian couple, and me, if we were there for a boat excursion. While Hector showed the Asian couple to their hotel I walked the one block to the beach to wait for Hector’s return.

Shortly, I joined a very nice French family of five in wading through the light surf to board a boat piloted by Pedro, our “muy amable” young barcodero who was entirely competent in identifying the various species of flora and fauna and explaining the sights. I discovered there are also tour boats which leave from the estuary side of the peninsula, but I understand they cost more, the tour is about an hour less in duration, and the trip does not include a high speed dash down the Gulf coast to access the estuary. Besides, in keeping with my freelance predilections, I’d rather deal with the independent Gulf side operators.

There are indeed large flocks of pink flamingos, which are pink due to their beta-carotene rich diet; lots of gray and white pelicans; cormorants everywhere; vultures circling overhead; egrets; and many other species of birds. The French family took a swim in the beautiful fresh water spring, which is essentially a cenote nestled in the mangrove forest and which drains into the estuary. Pedro piloted the boat, fairly rapidly, through a slough that weaves through the mangroves and in which during the night one may see crocodiles. And Pedro landed the boat for the short walk to the “petrified forest”, which is actually, what along the Washington coast of the USA is referred to as, a “ghost forest.” The land, according to Pedro, subsided 80 to 100 years ago during a seismic event, thus allowing the intrusion of seawater which killed the trees, the ghosts of which remain standing.

After the boat excursion, I eschewed the tourist oriented, beach side restaurants and settled into the Nicte-Ha restaurant one block back from the beach. The beers were $6 pesos cheaper than at beach side; and, though I didn’t compare lunch prices, I suspect that my lunch of lightly fried fish filets, tomatoes and onions in vinegar, rice, and a stack of 15 corn tortillas was also less expensive. The other attractions lacking, I suspect, in the beach side restaurants are waiters who go about their duties holding a baby and the chatter of seven, or so, grandchildren of the proprietors sitting in a corner watching TV.

The entire trip, including el barcodero Pedro’s $50 peso tip was less than $40. U. S. It was another great day in the Yucatan.

I am writing a longer, more detailed travel report I will post when completed, but for now I wanted to get some pictures posted.

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Byrd Defoliates Bush

In case you haven’t seen the transcript of heard the actual speech, Sen. Robert Byrd of West Virginia has lambasted the president and his administration for its violations of the law and Constitution. I added the bold type in the following excerpt. I encourage you to read the entire speech. Senator Byrd, one of the Senate’s leading orators and Constitutional scholars, is, I think, exactly right.

“And the phrase, 'war on terror,' while catchy, certainly is a misnomer. Terror is a tactic used by all manner of violent organizations to achieve their goals. It has been around since time began, and will likely be with us on the last day of planet earth. We were attacked by Bin Laden and by his organization Al Qaeda. If anything, what we are engaged in should, more properly, be called, a war on the Al Qaeda network. But, that is too limiting for an Administration that loves power as much as this one. A war on the Al Qaeda network might conceivably be over some day. A war on the Al Qaeda network might have achievable, measurable objectives, and it would be less able to be used as a rationale for almost any government action. It would be harder to periodically traumatize and terrorize the U.S. public, thereby justifying a reason for stamping secret on far too many government programs and activities. Why hasn't Congress been thoroughly briefed on the President's secret eavesdropping program, or on other secret domestic monitoring programs run by the Pentagon or other government entities? Is it because keeping official secrets prevents annoying Congressional oversight? Revealing this program in its entirety to too many members of Congress could certainly have unmasked its probable illegality at a much earlier date, and may have allowed members of Congress to pry information out of the White House that the Judiciary Committee could not pry out of Attorney General Gonzales, who seems genuinely confused about whom he works for -- the public or his old boss, the President.”

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

A Couple of Great Videos

This morning the compact DVD player hi fi system I bought was delivered, and I immediately watched both of the DVDs I brought with me.

First I watched the Dixie Chicks performance in the Kodak Theatre. Lead singer Natalie Maines’ somewhat rough and tumble vocals are sweetened by the very precise harrmonies of sisters Emily Robison and Martie Maguire. Robison and Mcguire each play a number of musical instruments virtuosically, the Chicks are backed by a great group, and the Kodak Theater is gorgeous.

Watching the show I was reminded of Clear Channel Communications efforts to contrive a Dixie Chick boycott in the wake of Natalie Maines’ unflattering words about George Bush. I love the Dixie Chicks and in response to Clear Channel’s despicable acts, I made a point of buying a number of their productions. (You Know Me, I can’t help but throw a political rant in.)

The other video I watched was the “Buena Vista Social Club”. Those of you who haven’t watched the video should. The film chronicles USA musical performer Ry Cooder’s efforts to unite a group of largely forgotten Cuban musicians and singers and record an album with them. His efforts resulted in the hugely successful “Buena Vista Social Club” CD and a Grammy.

The Buena Vista Social Club was reportedly a Havana nightclub active in the past, but which the Cuban musicians filmed riding around in the back of a 1950s era US convertible looking for it never found. The tourist guide books mention the Club and give a location; but I was likewise unable to find it during a 2004 Havana visit, though I spent an afternoon looking and asking around for it.

The film wends its way back and forth between shots of Cooder in Cuba rounding up the musicians and the denouement of Cooder’s project, a concert in the amazing Carnegie Hall. There are interviews of each Cuban musician in Cuba followed immediately by shots of her or his particular performance at Carnegie Hall.

Though he orchestrated the assemblage and concert and though his haunting slide guitar subtlety emerges throughout, Cooder’s understated presence in the film is a credit, I think, to his humility and lends credibility to the sincerity of his effort.

From one of the opening shots of Cooder and his son riding Havana streets in a Ural motorcycle with sidecar on their way to a recording session to the shots of the concert at Carnegie Hall, the film is a delight. Go find it an watch it.

More Abu Ghraib Photos Make Me Ashamed

If you want to see what the Bush administration and USA service personnel are doing in your name, an Australian TV station has obtained additional photos of the abuse at Abu Ghraib. This stuff sickens me, and makes me ashamed to admit that I am of the USA.

Having said that, I believe that the vast majority of USA service personnel are honorable, ethical human beings who are also sickened by such depravity. Though I think the service person grinning in the photos should be locked up for a very long time, the fault of the atrocities at Abu Ghraib ultimately lies with George W. Bush, Dick Cheney, Donald Rumsfeld, Alberto Gonzales, other administration officials who abide, and actually encourage, such; Congress, the members of which, by and large, apparently do not have the moral compass necessary to know right from wrong and to put an end to the atrocities; and military leaders who lack the backbone to say no to the amoral criminals running the country and insist on the observation of the Geneva Conventions.

I also believe the other elements in play that have enabled the Abu Ghraib and Guantanamo Bay atrocities is the racism of a large portion of the USA population, particularly toward those of the Islamic faith; and a generally pathetic media that abides such bigotry. After all how many of USA media outlets carry the commentary of the hateful and virulent Ann Coulter, the bigot who refers to those who wear turban type headwear as “rag heads.”

That worthless, low-budget, backwater outpost of the Stephens Media Empire that serves where I used to live, The Daily World of Aberdeen, WA USA, did and may still. The fact that Coulter is widely syndicated is an indication that she has a large audience who, presumably, appreciates her brand of hateful bigotry.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

When Will They Ever Learn

I am at a complete loss. What's new, you might say. But when 60% of the USA population disapproves of Bush'’s "“handling"” of the Iraq "Issue"”; and everyone with even the slightest cognizance knows that the Bush administration, and itÂ’s and Israeli foreign policy supporters, lied the USA public into supporting their way into the Iraq adventure, why would 47% of the USA public now believe the lies that the very same people are now telling them about, and support a military strike on, Iran?

As the Kingston Trio asked, in their song "“Where Have All the Flowers Gone"”, "“When will they ever learn, when will they ever learn?"”

The answer is that they won't. Remember the Maine? Remember the Gulf of Tokin Resolution? Remember the Cubans in Grenada? Remember the commies under your bed?

Flowers will continue to go to young girls, young girls will continue to go to young men, young men will continue to go to soldiers, soldiers will continue to go to graveyards, and the graveyards will continue to go to flowers. Those who profit from USA wars will continue to promote and profit from the war. And half the USA public will continue to give a shit; and happily, mindlessly, and obediently move to where the shepherds of war and their media enablers herd them.

Military strikes on Iran could kill 10,000 and result in a wider Middle East war.

It's Cool In Merida

This morning I left the apartment at quarter to seven to begin my day trip to Celestun and for the first time since arriving here last October 1st I felt the need to wear a long sleeved t-shirt. Not to mention the flannel outer shirt I also wore. I was able to shed the flannel on the bus to Celestun and changed to short sleeves when I arrived.

All of the travel guides recommend a visit to Celestun. The town itself is no great shakes, but the boat ride through the estuary is worth a visit. I will be writing about and posting pictures of my trip and visit soon.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Merida English Library Chili Cook Off

Here's the Living in the Yucatan blog's report on MEL's annual chili cook off fund raiser I attended yesterday. I tried them all an entered my vote. The winner was the Chili Vanilli, which was in someway associated with the Ohio State University.

Street Arches

There are a number of these arches spanning Merida streets. These two span Calles 61 and 63 along Calle 50.












Friday, February 10, 2006

Failure

As I learned on the Merida Insider discussion board, for a laugh go to Google and type "failure" into the search box and then hit "I Feel Lucky". A similar type of joke went around some months back when you typed "weapons of mass destruction" in the search box.

The Ugly American Strikes Again

I don’t know if there has been much news in the U. S. about the brown shirts in the U. S. State Department Office of Foreign Assets Control calling a Sheraton hotel in Mexico City to demand that the hotel expel a Cuban delegation that was meeting with Exxon and Valero Energy executives to discuss Cuban oil production matters. It has certainly been big news in Mexico. Mexicans, it seems, don’t appreciate having their national sovereignty trod upon by their powerful, arrogant neighbor to the North.

The U. S. Congress, in one of its many despicable acts, enacted the Helms-Burton Act in 1996. The act, which carries the name of one of the most despicable U. S. Senators to ever befoul Congress, prohibits U. S. based companies from doing business with Cuba anywhere in the world. No wonder most people around the world hate the U. S.

The U. S. Cuba policy is based upon the desire for Florida’s 27 electoral college votes over which the super rich Cuban expatriates of South Florida, who wish to regain control over Cuba, exercise inordinate influence. The President must demonstrate how tough he is toward Cuba to shore up support amongst those South Florida anachronisms.

The Sheraton is now subject to Mexican sanctions and maybe closed for numerous code violations that have now come to light and faces a discrimination investigation by Mexican officials.

I can’t imagine why the manager of the hotel and its parent company didn’t tell the State Dept. to taking a flying you know what into a rolling donut, and then fight the State Dept. brown shirts.

It seems to me that if we elected intelligent people to Congress and the presidency and they appointed intelligent managers we would have a policy that encouraged U. S. citizens to travel to Cuba. What better way to bring change to Cuba. The embargo affected in the early 1960s has done nothing except drive Cuba to become a client of the Soviet Union.

By the way, large agricultural product companies which have been generous with campaign donations, such as Arthur Daniels Midland, Tyson, and others are permitted to sell to Cuba.

Train Station

Yesterday afternoon I took a long walk to the East, through the Chuminopolis and Industrial neighborhoods, or Colonias as they are known here, and came upon the magnificent old train station. The sign you can see in the foreground indicates that the Yucatan state government is sponsoring the building's renovation and conversion to a University of the Arts.

Merida is composed of almost 350 colonias, according to the great map I found some weeks ago in the Centro tourist district. My apartment is located within Centro.

The street numbers often abruptly change at the boundary of a colonia, which caused me confusion when out walking around until I obtained the map. For example, yesterday I was walking East on Calle 47 which became Calle 13 at the boundary of the Colonia Chuminopolis.

Colonia Industrial, as its name makes clear, is composed of many industrial operations, with homes both humble and grandiose, interspersed and a large rail yard. Chuminopolis is residential, also containing a mix of the humble and grandiose.

Every neighborhood I've visited has shops mixed with residential. There are small gocery stores on almost every block, often operating out of the front room of a home, such as the one four doors down from my apartment. Cocina econmicas, or loncherias, are ubiquitous and also often operated out of the front room and/or front porch of homes. And there's always a laundry or two nearby.

In the U. S. zoning is used in most communities to separate residential, commercial, and industrial uses. It works because almost veryone owns a car, or two or three. The Merida model, which enables folks to obtain the goods they need within walking distance, I think makes more sense and is certainly more environmentally friendly.

Thursday, February 09, 2006

Lunch With The Working Gringos

Yesterday I had lunch with the Working Gringos at a cocina econmica around the corner from their office and then spent a couple hours in interesting conversation on the roof of their office. You’ll remember I recently recommended their blog, Yucatan Living, which I happened upon earlier this week

The WGs are both very knowledgeable about the Yucatan, as well as Mexico and Latin America in general. I learned a lot.

The cocina in which we had lunch is housed in a building that previously housed La Casa De Los Tornillos (house of screws), which sounds to me like a good name for a torture chamber. The WGs describe “Lunch the Yucatan Way” here.

Merida English Library

Today I walked the few blocks to the Merida English Library and became a member. Though I am grateful to Armando for feeding me a steady stream of reading material, I really prefer non-fiction. The first book I borrowed from the MEL is “A New History of Cuba” by Richard Gott, which is more in line with my tastes.

Of the books I’ve read since being here I highly recommend “Love and War in Apennines”, which I bought at the MEL some weeks ago . The true story recounts a British soldier’s exploits in eluding the German army and Italian fascists after leaving an Italian prisoner of war camp upon Italy’s surrender from WWII. He was aided by Italian hill farmers of the Apennines, many of whose sons were sent off to fight the Russians, never to return, and who generally had great distaste for the fascists. The descriptions of the Apennines and its hill farmers are colorful and fascinating.

Wednesday, February 08, 2006

Help Send Bill O'Reilly to Darfur

In case you haven’t heard NYT pundit Nicholas Kristof is sponsoring a pledge drive to send Bill O’Reilly to Darfur, Sudan. Before you get too excited, Kristof insists that it be a round trip. As Kristof put it:

"Offers will be anonymous, except maybe to the N.S.A. Sure, this is a desperate measure. But with several hundred thousand people already murdered in Darfur and two million homeless and living in shantytowns, the best hope for those still alive is a strong dose of American outrage. . . .

"Mr. O'Reilly has a big audience and a knack for stirring outrage. Lately, he (quite properly) galvanized an outcry over a ridiculously light sentence for a sexual predator in Vermont. The upshot was that the sentence was increased. Good for him.

"So imagine the furor Mr. O'Reilly could stir up if he publicized the hundreds of thousands of rapes, murders and mutilations in Darfur. He could save lives on a grand scale.

"Join the pledge drive!"

You may email your pledge to sponsorbill@gmail.com.

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Butt Print

Ok, so I'm weird, but (no pun intended) I think this photo of a jeans clad butt impression on a dusty chair is pretty cool. Nice butt, eh?

Paseo Montejo Monument

I took the photo of this monument, in one of the Paseo Montejo traffic circles, from the bus window on the way to Dzibilchaltun. I assume it is of a Mayan warrior.

Incidentally, the cost of having two rolls of film, of 24 shots each, developed and placed on a CD by my local Fuji shop was a total of about $60 pesos, including the cost of the CD.

This morning I purchased a package of 20 4" x 6" premium, glossy photo paper from the same shop for $69. pesos, so I could print photos for the barber.

Monday, February 06, 2006

Further Evidence That Folks Lie To Pollsters

92% say they would vote for a qualified woman for president but only 55% say America is ready for a woman president.

My Barber Shop Experience

After having intended to for about the last week, today I went for a haircut. I have visited two barbershops since arriving in Merida, but until today hadn’t settled on a barber to whom I wished to return.

About noon I walked to the barber shop on Calle 39 just off Calle 62, about a block and a half from my apartment. My trip for a haircut resulted in a wonderful 2 hour experience, the type of which I have come to expect here.

When I arrived there was one fellow in the chair and two others waiting, so I had plenty of time to examine the place, which consisted of one room of about 12’ x 12’; and to listen to the obviously jocular conversation. Though I understood little of what was said everyone was cordial and I sat patiently waiting my turn.

Later, when I was in the chair my next door neighbor brought her son in. She asked many questions about my garden which she can see from her second story. I introduced myself and learned her name is Edna. She was very nice and anxious to talk.

As I sat waiting I was astounded by the amazingly beautiful barber chair around which the barber, Luis Baeza, moved as he efficiently and meticulously groomed his clients. Two of the fellows ahead of me were in for a shave, which was completed with a straight razor. After finishing with each, Sr. Baeza repeatedly sprayed his hands with water and returned to his client to rub his wet hands over the client’s face searching for spots that required further attention. The entire time Sr. Baeza carried on with the conversation that included all present, often stopping his work to support his remarks with hand gestures.

The shop’s chair is constructed of wood, cast iron, and brass with a cane seat and back. The wood of the arms and legs is carved with various designs; the ornately cast iron footrest includes the Konen Company name and logo; and the brass fittings, that enable the reclining feature, are ornate. The four wooden legs, which radiate from the central support, are capped with brass. The chair carries a plaque on the rear of the seat indicating it was manufactured by Konen’s Barber Supply Company, of St. Louis, and indicates a date of 1888.

An internet search upon my return home indicates that Konen’s patented the reclining barber chair in 1888 and that the particular chair in Sr. Baeza’s shop is likely the Congress One-Lever Chair No.132, which the company advertised in its 1926 catalogue as "The Chair for Cuba and the Philippines". There is a removable, padded headrest which Sr. Baeza inserts before reclining his clients for their shave.

I was so taken away by the chair that I asked Sr. Baeza if it would be alright if I returned to photograph the chair. He was thrilled.

I returned a bit later and found an elderly client in the chair. Sr. Baeza asked if I wanted his client to get out of the chair. I, of course, assured him that I was happy to wait. While I was waiting, Sr. Baeza explained to his client that I was there to photograph the chair and the conversation was off and running. The older fellow in the chair joked that the chair was from Chicago and was used by Al Capone.

About then another client entered the shop and joined the conversation. When the conversation turned to the age of the chair Sr. Baeza informed his client that the chair’s plaque carried the date of 1888. I remarked that the chair was 118 years old. The old fellow in the chair looked at me and I immediately assured him that I was speaking of the chair and not him. They all laughed. The old guy in the chair then told me that on February 21 he would be 100 years old. He allowed me to express my amazement and remark upon how he looks really good for being 100 before he let me know he was kidding. He will be only 80.

I asked Sr. Cliente, as I called him, if he minded if I took his picture and he of course said “no problema.” The picture at the left is the result. His name, he informed me when I asked, is Sr. Novelo; and true to his name he makes it up as he goes along. We all enjoyed a number of good laughs at his jestful commentary.

After Sr. Novelo was finished with his laughs at my expense, and Sr. Baeza was finished with his meticulous work on his hair, he got out of the chair, refusing any assistance from both Sr. Baeza and me, and I took the pictures above.

When it was my turn in the chair I instructed Sr. Baeza to cut it short and did he ever cut it short. I am now sporting what I think may fairly be called a buzz cut. The haircut will require no care but I must be more attentive to wearing a hat when in the mid-day sun.

I’m sitting here thinking of how extremely fortunate I am to have two hours to spend at a barber shop and pleased that I have found a barber shop just around the corner where I don't mind spending two hours. Another great day in Merida.

Chelem

A few weeks ago I sat on the beach in the small fishing village of Chelem, just West of Progreso, for about a half hour watching this pelican fish. It would skim the water, spy a fish, dive, and come up with a snack.




The beach in Chelem is apparently eroding, as tubes, composed of some sort of heavy synthetic material, have been filled with sand and placed on the beach. I think they might be referred to as "geo tubes" and are used also on East coast beaches of the U. S. You can see the tubes at the water line in the picture of the fisherman.


Compost Pile II

Apparently El Gringo Loco is getting a reputation in the neighborhood. A few days ago my neighbor Joel hollered at me, while I was in the back yard on aphid patrol, that there was someone at my front door. As it turned out it was the fellow who owns the house next door wanting to know if I wanted the pickup truck load of vegetative waste he had removed from his yard. Of course, being El Gringo Loco, I accepted.

As it was, I had just turned the compost pile and consolidated it into about half of its original area, so had just the spot for my neighbor's “organicos”. The waste he brought had just the right mix of green (wet) and brown (dry) materials which I layered into the vacant area and watered down. Now it is steaming hot.

Previously I had salvaged quite a load of vegetation from another neighbor and created a second compost pile. Last week the fellows Sr. Monsreal hired to pour a concrete parking area removed quite a bit of vegetation from parking area to be and piled it next to compost pile II. I have since incorporated it into the pile and watered it a bit. There is not much green in the pile so I don’t expect it to cook, as is compost pile I which is covered with black plastic.

Working Gringos in Paradise

I found the "Yucatan Living" blog this morning when I did a Yahoo search (I avoid Google, as a matter of principle. You know me.) for "Merida Mexico tattoos", which is a whole other story with which I won't bore you at present.

The authors of the blog have lived here since 2002, calling themselves "dot bomb refugees"; operate their web site design business here in Merida; and post very interesting, well composed, information about the Yucatan and its varied environs and cultures.

Give it a read, and don't forget the archives.

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Further Inllustration Why To Not Trust Wikipedia Info

Anybody is able to write in Wikipedia anything they want about anybody or anything, whether ture or not.

Dzibilchaltun

Thursday I took the local bus, for $7 pesos each way, to Dzibilchaltun (the place of writing on stones), a partially restored Mayan city about 10 miles from Merida.

Dzibilchaltun was once home to an estimated 40,000 Mayans and covers quite an extensive area. The city’s large main plaza is surrounded by a large number of buildings, many of which are in various states of renovation and flanked by a good sized cenote of clear, blue water in which visitors are welcome to swim. Cenotes are openings in the limestone, of which the Yucatan is composed, in which water is generally perched upon the underlying limestone, creating a pond. Cenotes are often connected to water filled caves that are ubiquitous throughout the Northern Yucatan.

The city’s first constructions date to 500 BC and was inhabited as late as the 17th century as evidenced by the Franciscan chapel constructed about 1600. The Catholic invaders apparently determined there were enough folks living in the city, estimated to be about 4,000 at the time, to warrant construction of a chapel, which has been largely restored. The city covers about 15 square kilometers, contains evidence of over 8,400 buildings, 8000 of which remain unexcavated .

Despite its nearness to Merida and the fact that it was so recently inhabited, the ruins were not “discovered’ until 1941. The vegetation here rapidly consumes anything that is undisturbed for even a short while and the unrenovated buildings in the city consist of piles of stones covered in vegetation, from grasses to trees. Even on the renovated structures plants sprout from even the smallest of cervices between the stones.

Separated from the main plaza by a Sacbe, a raised roadway, perhaps a mile long and 50 yards wide and which looks like a landing strip, is the Temple of the Seven Dolls. The temple has been named such for the seven small sculpted figurines found during the building’s excavation. The temple is oriented such that on the Spring and Fall equinoxes the rising sun shines directly through the building’s openings shown in the picture above. The site opens early on the equinoxes to accommodate the few thousand tourist and local folks who attend to witness the phenomena. Many of the locals dress in white for the occasion.

The site includes the Museum of the Mayan People, a number of interpretive signs, lots of butterflies, and an array of vegetation from succulents to cacti.

The local bus leaves from the Progreso station on Calle 62, the trip takes about an hour with the frequent stops, and there is about a 1 km walk from the bus stop to the site. There are guides at the museum who speak English well and who offer their services; but you know me, I opted for an unaccompanied visit.

I spent about two and a half thoroughly enjoyable hours wandering the site and as soon as I completed my walk back to the main road I hopped on a bus headed for Merida that happened along. More good fortune. I thought I would have to wait about an hour for the next bus and there was no place in the area offering cold beer.

Most of the pictures I took of the site I took with my 35 mm camera as it takes better pictures. As soon as I have the roll developed I will post more pictures of my trip.

Saturday, February 04, 2006

Bush's Human-Animal Hybrid Ban

I of course did not watch or listen to Bush’s SOTUA, so I didn’t know he announced a ban on human-animal hybrids. Like his promise to reduce oil imports from the Middle East by 75% (Middle East imports account for only 10% of U. S. oil imports, by the way), WH staff has indicated Bush announced ban was only SOTUA rhetoric.

Tom Burka places the ban in perspective.

February 02, 2006
White House Staff Hit Hard By Human-Animal Hybrid Ban

Chickenhawks at Risk, Among Others
A ban on human-animal hybrids announced by President Bush in his State of the Union address has many senior White House staffers panicked, and the NIH, which has been tasked with enforcing the ban, has already prepared subpoenas for DNA samples for most of the White House staff.

Dick Cheney, who is thought to be a chickenhawk/man, told reporters today that the State of the Union was not intended to be taken literally by anyone. "It's really a rhetorical flourish," he said. Karl Rove, who many people freely attest is "not entirely human," backed up Cheney, saying that almost everything the President said was "unenforceable." Cheney and Rove then retired to the White House dining room where they gnawed on hanging seed sticks and sharpened their beaks.

A White House official, who preferred to remain anonymous because commenting on the genetic makeup of co-workers is frowned upon, said that Donald Rumsfeld, while not necessarily a chickenhawk, was certainly half-man, half-beast.

In this morning's press gaggle, White House Press Secretary Scott McClellan found himself denying rumors today that the President himself is "half-man, half-chimp," saying only, "There's just a resemblance." After becoming increasingly defensive, McClellan finally compared the press corps to "a bunch of geese" and left the room.

A poll this morning found that Americans, by and large, are completely unconcerned by events in the White House or on Capitol Hill. According to pollster Melonie Fisk, "On the whole, Americans are more concerned with keeping up with the herd and the coming spring shearing."


PZ Meyers tells us what Bush's human/animal hybrid ban is really all about.

"It's pure political calculus. He throws away the mad scientist and pig-man vote, and wins the religious ignoramus vote…and we know which one has the majority here."

Friday, February 03, 2006

Garden Report

The garden report contains both good and bad news. The bad is that the cantaloupe plants have come down with a foliar affliction, either a mildew or virus; and many of the tomato plants have become afflicted, as near as I’ve been able to determine, with the Tomato Mosaic Virus. The cantaloupes continue to put on new that is so far out running the affliction, but not very many little cantaloupes remain on the vine. The tomato plants all have tomatoes hanging from them, some as large as a ripe tomato, and seem to be unaffected. They also continue to put on new growth and flowers. The tomatoes in a large container on the patio are doing fine.

The watermelons are growing well but all but a few little watermelons sloughed off, I am guessing that I let the soil dry out. I have begun to give them a good soaking every two days and the vines are putting on little watermelons. The watermelon you see above is doing fine and continuing to grow, and there are two others that are in the 4 – 6 inch range.

There is no problem at all with pollination of the melon flowers as there are honey bees always working the plants. Additionally, the ladybugs seem to have taken control of the aphid problem and the soap water spray is no longer necessary.

Some creature ate all the leaves off my little habanera plants, which remain only a few inches tall, though I planted them when I planted the tomatoes. The plants had started putting on new growth when the critter, I’m guessing a gecko, struck. I cut up large soda bottles and put sections around the plants for protection but the very day I put them out Dusty snuck under the garden fence to play with them.

He trampled the onions and retrieved one of the soda bottle barriers for a toy. For some reason he really likes to play with plastic bottles and is forever unearthing them from the back yard. Since the bottles make quite an obnoxious racket as he slides them across the patio I trick him into giving them up for one of his other toys and throw them away.

The garlic, onions, carrots, both crops of lettuce, and cucumbers are all doing very well.

Market Day

Fridays have turned into market day for me. About 9:00 A.M. I head for the Santa Anna produce market at the edge of the Santa Anna Park, where I buy the coming week’s supply of fruits and vegetables, fruit from Luis, who greets me warmly by name and assures me that the fruit is ripe and sweet; and vegetables from the woman with the booth next to Luis’. Often when I arrive at Luis’ booth he is snoozing on his stool.

From Luis I buy watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya and bananas at a cost of $80 – 100 pesos ($7.50 – 9.50 U.S.); and, for $20 – 30 pesos, I buy tomatoes, onions, habaneras, carrots and an avocado from the woman next door. So for $10. – 12 U. S. I am able to buy a week’s supply of fruits and vegetables, lots of which which I eat daily.

Later in the day I generally go to Isstey, a super market a half block from the park that is operated by the Yucatan state pension entity (damned socialists), where I am able to buy refried beans, juice, cheese, paper products, and household supplies at very favorable prices, less than at Chedraui, Mexico’s answer to Walmart. Isstey also sells liter bottles of Mexican vodka, with a Russian name, for $35. pesos. I buy Spanish Olive oil, for $80 pesos per liter, from Rosales, a small market across from the Santa Anna Park.

Both the produce market and Isstey are a four block walk from home but since I carry my purchases home in bags I must take two trips.

Thursday, February 02, 2006

More on the Plame Name Game

So now we learn that the CIA told Cheney and Libby that the Niger uranium story was phony before they started their mission to smear Ambassador Wilson, that White House email records were expunged, and that Libby “may have outed Plame on the orders of his ‘superiors.’” . Libby is apparently using the defense that he was only following orders to violate the law and jeopardize the CIA’s search for real WMDs, he effort in which Ms. Plame worked.

The problem for the White House is that Prosecutor Fitzgerald has been told of such, as he indicated in a letter of response to Libby’s attorney. Expunging records and lying is the same stuff that got Nixon impeached. Of course all this doesn’t matter much since Bush and his courtiers were able to stonewall the whole affair until after his reelection, which event then required phoneying up the Ohio results.

Read the “Raw Story” report here.