Hvar

The hillsides throughout the island of Hvar, just off the Dalmatian coast, have been terraced over the millennia by folks clearing rocks so the ground could be farmed. Lavender is grown everywhere and its scent permeates the air. Also grown are grapes from which is made the dark golden, tasty local wine.

Also on Hvar is the oldest theater in Europe, constructed during Shakespeare's lifetime and which has recently been renovated. While visiting the town of Hvar I stayed in what was once a Venetian Count's home. The hotel was about $20. per night and a sumptuous dinner of spaghetti fruti de mar (spaghetti with clams, mussels, and octopus), a salad and 1/2 carafe of local wine was $8. The restaurant owner, an Italian fellow, threw in a complimentary glass of vodka which I assumed was home distilled.

A bus ride across the mountainous island on the 1 1/2 lane road got to be a little exciting on a couple of occasions.

Hvar is good for a two or three day visit. There are other amazingly beautiful nearby islands, easily accessible through the excellent, pervasive ferry service. The Adriatic on the Croatian side is much deeper, thus cleaner, than on the Italian side; and mostly submerged mountains protrude from the sparkling aqua hued sea, creating more than one thousand islands.